Another very full on day around Kochi: this time, exploring the backwaters, the network of waterways large and small that define this part of Kerala. There are various large rivers, lots of smaller tributaries, countless tiny streams and canals and a couple of extremely large lakes. These waterways have created inland islands only reachable by boat and a way of life along the banks that hasn’t changed much in centuries.
One famous thing to do down here, generally out of Aleppey, is to rent a restored rice barge and spend a couple of nights on the waterways. We didn’t really have time for this and also we were a bit put off by the sheer number of these tourist barges, often travelling in long lines and plying the same routes. And to be honest the expense was offputting – around £250 per night. Instead we decided to take a day trip offered by Wilson Tours https://www.wilsontours.in/full-day-backwater-village-punting-boat-cruise which got good reviews online. It was a full day on the backwaters and offered a 3 hour trip on a small rice barge powered by punt which enabled the boat to get to smaller waterways the larger residential boats couldn’t reach. There were other river community activities included, lunch and then a 1 hour trip in a dugout – again punted – in the tiniest waterways of all. It cost £19 pp for the whole day. Sounded perfect.
They picked us up in a large ac taxi bang on time at 0900. There were 3 others with us, a French couple and a Spanish man. All very nice. We drove around 45 minutes south of our hotel (the others were staying in Fort Kochi so began at 0830) and then pulled down to a riverside where our barge was waiting.
We got aboard and off we went, propelled by a man with a large bamboo pole at the front, and another at the back. It was a lovely way to travel. Very hard work for them though, must have been very fit as they were against the wind.
We travelled along a wide river which narrowed as we proceeded upstream. Saw herons of various kinds along the way, fishermen, little fish farms and lots of little traditional houses set back amongst the dense palm and tropical jungle.
Lots of the houses were involved in harvesting the little freshwater clams. Often the women do this. They collect the shellfish from the shell layer under the river silt, bring them ashore in a large tub. They then get thoroughly washed to remove silt and grit and then are steamed. The meat is removed and cooked in spices for a long period. This clam stew is then sold. Or it may be dried and sold as a flavouring. The shells are ground up and sold for fertiliser.
At around 12 we pulled into the river bank at a village house where we had ice cold water and could purchase home made banana and tapioca crisps. The main business of the house was coconut farming though and the lady of the house gave us amazing demonstrations of how she wove palm fronds into mats and roof coverings and how she turned coconut hair into strong rope. She was so fast at it, literally using fingers and toes at incredible speed. The idea is that no part of the coconut should go to waste. They use the flesh, the milk, the husk and the frond.
On we went again, for about another 30 minutes and then pulled into a little island guesthouse with lovely gardens where we were given lunch. It was completely vegetarian and served on a banana leaf plate. About 6 different chutneys spooned on, then a big mound of rice and two different vegetable curries to spoon over the rice, and papadoms. It was all very nice, lots of it. Finally a tub of vanilla ice cream.
The barge ferried us across the river where our taxi driver was waiting. He took us to another spot, this time on a tiny, tiny canal, maybe 5 foot wide. We got into a long wooden dugout, very simple and another chap punted us up along there, under small bridges, trees growing over the top of us, waterlilies, a truly lovely sight. This was possibly my favourite bit of the whole day. Like something out of an Impressionist painting by Monet or the Jungle Book… It was everything I imagined and hoped a trip on the waterways would be like.
It all ended too soon and we disembarked and walked a very short distance to a very rustic tea stall where we were given hot tea and offered a cold rissole made of spiced dhal. Interesting. Suitably refreshed we walked another short way to a spice farm where we were given a short tour of the many fruits and spices being grown around the garden. It was about 2-230 by then and extremely hot away from the river. I think we were all ready to get back in the ac taxi by then…. I know Bob and I were praying for it!!!!!! Still, we loved our day and would heartily recommend this tour. Incredible value and just idyllic to float around such beautiful surroundings. These tours in Kochi have been just amazing. We’ve seen and learned so much.
Got back to the hotel about 4pm and it was frankly wonderful to get into the lovely cool room. Straight into the shower and washed our wet, sweaty clothes in the sink and hung them on the balcony. We’d been gifted a massive bowl of fruit from one of the lovely assistant customer relations staff that we’ve been chatting to in the Lounge at night. That was so nice to find. Really lovely people here.
Tonight we went low key and ate dinner and spent the evening in the Club Lounge. This meant everything was FREE. We had great smoked salmon and cucumber starters. Bob had masala fish, salad and a sandwich. I had lots of smoked salmon and cucumber rolls, lots of masala spiced white fish…. plus a couple of slivers of cake and some brie. I also had 3 gin and sodas. We had great chat with our lovely Naitina, who sent us the fruit, plus Joseph and Stella who we have met a couple of times here now. They are from Mumbai originally but lived in Kuwait for a long time, then followed their daughter to Florida for 26 years and have now followed her to Austin, Texas. They come back to India for a month most years, visit family and spend 10 days at the Meridien in Kochi which they adore. Lovely to share experiences with them.