A Day in Medieval Troyes

Today we visited the beautiful medieval city of Troyes about 90 minutes drive away by autoroute. Much of the town centre dates from the 14th – 16th century and it’s just a feast of colourful timber framed buildings, teetering drunkenly forwards, sideways and every which way. There are tiny alleyways between some of them where you could literally shake hands out of an upper window with your neighbour. Often the plasterwork between the timbering is coloured – red, green, yellow, blue. It’s really an attractive place.

We have visited once before and loved it. https://travelswithallie.blog/2021/09/17/journey-back-in-time-troyes/ so it was very much part of the plan to have another visit this time. In fact I’d like to spend a couple of days in Troyes and see it by night. That would be lovely.

We parked up near the Cathedral and walked up into the old town adjoining. Stopped in Starbucks for coffee and the loos. Not very on theme but convenient! Then we just wandered around the streets and alleys, looking at the buildings. Eventually we stopped for lunch and we went into Chez Felix, where Bob and I had eaten before. Weirdly we were shown to exactly the same table out on their lovely terrace overlooking the herb knot garden of the adjacent old ursuline nunnery. https://www.chez-felix.fr/

We just wanted a small bite to eat. I had a heritage tomato salad with burrata and basil crumb. Susan had the same. Bob had an egg salad with herb mayo. John had gazpacho. It was all very good and it was a lovely location to sit in. Once again we were lucky with the weather and it was a warm sunny day, about 22C.

After lunch we wandered a bit more and then went to visit the lovely Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul. It had been closed for renovation last time we were in Troyes so we were delighted to be able to go inside this time. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troyes_Cathedral There has been a Christian presence on the site since the Third Century but this cathedral was begun in 1200 and finished in the mid 1400s. Several important historical events are connected with the cathedral and Troyes historically. Interesting to read about.

It’s a beautiful cathedral with soaring, fluted pillars and ceilings, a testament to the skill of the masons, and also amazing old stained glass windows. A lovely peaceful place.

We also visited the Basilica of St Urbain, another 14th century church. Not as awe inspiring as the cathedral but well worth a visit. It was commissioned by Pope Urban IV, the shoemaker Pope, who had been born on the site. Another interesting read.

We got home at around 5pm after a very good day out. I would really recommend a visit to Troyes, if you get the chance.

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