Dolphins and Drifting Down the River Sal

Brilliant day today spent sailing on the River Sal with Betty’s Boat. We did this trip two years ago and had such a great day that we vowed to do it again. I’d do it every year to be honest. It’s such good value and fun.

The Most Perfect Backwaters Day

We had booked a coach to take us to the launch place in Cavalossim, about an hour’s run north from Patnem. I must confess I was a bit nervous about what would turn up but in the event it was quite a modern, smart small 20 seater coach which was fine as we were 19 in the party.

The weather was forecast to be hot 35C but it was deliciously cool when Bob and I walked down the lane to Eve’s Resort for the pickup. We were glad of the air conditioning on the bus though as it soon got hot.

The last part of the drive is particularly nice, past a lot of Portuguese colonial era bungalows amongst the dense greenery and over rivers and water meadows. Last time we got the boat all to ourselves but this time, we had the top deck and there was another party on the bottom deck. By weird co-incidence there was another couple in that party from Northern Cyprus who was known to the Cypriots in our party. What a small world!!!!!

The boat set off at 10ish and we headed down river and out to sea. It’s spring tides and we were approaching high tide so unlike last time we could get over the sandbar at the mouth of the river. The sea was incredibly calm and we tootled along offshore of beautiful Betul and Mobor beaches looking for dolphins. We soon found them and spent abut 3/4 of an hour following them and admiring their jumps and dives. I would say there were about 5. No doubt you want to see pictures but you will have to take my word for it. I am the world’s worst dolphin photographer and I’ve got hundreds of photos of a splash in the water just seconds after there’d been a dolphin there, to prove it. So I just enjoyed their antics today without even trying to photograph them.

We then headed back into the Sal and just slowly made our way upstream past the fishing vessels moored up ready to go out again. Many had quite large crews of Indian boys on board who all seemed to be washing as we passed. They all laughed when we waved, not embarrassed at all. There were also many lovely villas and restaurants along the river which looked very tempting. Of course we saw lots of birds and luckily John had his bird identifier card with him so we could try and name them. We definitely saw a purple heron, various kites and shags and a sea eagle.

Once in the river’s shelter, the food and drink service began. They brought around big glasses of mojitos which is their signature beverage but you could have any drink you wanted, basically unlimited free service right to the end. Then the food. First course was chicken sate served on wooden skewers, very juicy and tasty. Then massive king prawns in a rich tomato garlic sauce served with a soft bread roll. Messy but omg just so delicious. I wanted to lick the plate! The piece de resistance was a huge mahi mahi fish which they grilled to perfection and served with a vegetable pilau rice and salad. You could have as much food as you liked. Finally a fruit salad of papaya and pineapple. The head waiter gave us a little show singing and playing the tambourine.

We got back to the dock at 230 and weaved our way up the gangplank and back to the coach. It was just a brilliant day out. Very convivial, lots of chat and laughter and great company. An absolute bargain at 1400 INR (£11) for the boat including all the food and drinks, and around £5 each for the coach.

Got back to Patnem at about 4. Had a quick swim to cool off and then slept a while. No dinner required for us tonight. Betty’s Boat we will be back!!!

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